Rant free blog with coffee and biscotti

I said this blog would be rant free and this was partly a test, to see if this is possible. I am currently engaged in an email exchange with my preferred supplier of my two drugs of choice on the subject of Fair Trade registration, so I am doubling my hurdles if I want to write about this without ranting. And to be a person with no interest in sport (except for the Olympics -more on this another day) during World Cup month and Wimbledon fortnight would surely induce another rant fount?

But no. England can stay in the WC as long as it likes. When they play a football match I get zippy service from the library and the cafe supplier of all day breakfast and I am not taking my middle aged life into my hands whenever I don the helmet and mount the Raleigh Shopper (3 speeds, 1 basket, 43 years of existence) (that's the bike, not me) (no, actually, it's me as well), so there's no point not being appreciative. And converting my favoured coffee bean retailer to Fair Trade will clearly take time but will work better with charm rather than ranting. I am determined to bring her round, it's that or set up my own import-export business, THERE IS NO ALTERNATIVE.

Rant alert: the very mention of the TINA acronym lurches me dangerously close to the frothy edged precipice of indignant fury on the subject of how the deficit is suddenly the most important thing to tackle (not the environment, not child poverty, not looking after the sick and old, not global warming, not the Iraq war.....) and that this is the ONLY way to tackle it.....but here I am backing gently away.

It was Fair Trade Fortnight very recently (it was also recyclying fortnight and knitting month). Rather than spend my pennies on Fair Trade goods supplied in certain high street coffee chains (being fairly traded doesn't in and of itself make it taste any better, just slip past your conscience more easily) I decided instead to choose the rocky road of reformation, one which had the added advantage of supplying me with delicious coffee.

Whilst in the middle of a commercial transaction for coffee beans which involves me looking away when the assistant shows me how much money I am about to authorise to leave from my overdraft (my bank treats my money like it is theirs so I think it only fair I should get to do the same sometimes), I casually asked the lovely woman if there was a reason why they don't stock any Fair Trade registered lines of beans and if so, what that reason might be. (right, sugar and lemon zest for the recipe, both from Fair Trade suppliers)

I will shorthand the rest of the several exchanges which took place as a result of this simple question. The staff at this shop are lovely, they know all about coffee, they know all about their coffees and they make little taster cups for you to try if your favourite bean is not in season. They are also - and I salute this - so passionate (an overused word in public life but I think it is appropriate here) about their coffee that this propels them to indignant and illogical fury when asked a very simple question about Fair Trade.

Now, Fair Trade fortnight is over, but you don't have to stop buying FT registered goods, they are for life not just for late May and early June. If you, like me with this beans purveyor, don't want to give your favourite shop up but they are persisting in ignoring or even mocking or rubbishing the only truly independent global scheme we have with transparent standards and processes for ensuring that goods with their mark are traded truly fairly, with proper regard for things some of us have clearly learnt to take for granted like living wages, safe working conditions and reasonable time off for maternity or sickness (it's not just about the money), try these simple steps:

1. Ask them, charmingly and when you have just paid them a stonking amount of money (if possible - may not work with Poundrite or Greggs the bakers), if there is a reason why they don't stock a single Fair Trade line (or so few, according to the observable facts).
2. Be positive about them as a shop - I agreed with the people I talked to that of course I trust them in matters of the taste of the coffee and the chocolate and yes their judgement is impeccable. But the difference between trusting them on the goods and trusting them that they were fairly traded is that I can taste the end product, I can't check on the process that brought it to me. Others can, and I am willing to pay for this certification (though often Fair Trade goods are not more expensive than the unfair sort).
3. Make sure you are helpful - I offered to find out about the costs of Fair Trade, looked it up and came back with information about the whole process. Here is a link to their website.
4. Be clear about why it matters - yes, I replied, of course I am also concerned with the working conditions of the staff in the retail outlet, and would surely support them if they felt they were being illegally exploited. However, they are covered by UK employment law and right now (though give it about ten more minutes under the current coalition and......step away from the rant and get back to the point) that means staff in European shops are protected from unsafe conditions, can't be paid less than the minimum wage and have a right to maternity and sick leave.
5. Acknowledge that yes, many big companies are now following this trend, but that this doesn't make it a bad thing or a mere marketing bandwagon. Indeed, I would take it as a sign that it is commercially helpful for a big supermarket, chocolate manufacturer or coffee selling company to seek out Fair Trade brands, particularly in commodoties so renowned for their unfair conditions (coffee and chocolate being two of them, and as they are the only two mood alterants I am now allowed, it matters to me that there isn't blood on them). Fair Trade means more trade.
6. If they say that it is not in demand, you can always point out (still charmingly) that there is a demand, from you and your friends, family and colleagues.

Is this effective? to be continued. Meanwhile I am well stocked for not registered as Fair Trade coffee of such fine quality I am having to share it amongst my friends to dilute my guilt. I do realise that I could have gone to my local supermarket, a veritable cathedral of consumerism, it giveth and it taketh away and there found Fair Trade ground coffee and no doubt 54,687 other things I didn't want. But, donning the cloak of moral superiority on top of the worn rags of cowardice and possibly sloth, I chose to support the local independent small business (yes, and get the good stuff I wanted).

I haven't yet told my target shop about another I have found which supplies fine coffee, not as fine as theirs, but coffee which is triple certified - Organic, Fair Trade and some quality control one. As I said, that last isn't so important, I am a fantastic quality control checker of chocolate and coffee, it's taken years of dedicated effort but I am an acknowledged expert on my own taste buds. My taste buds tell me that I should be trying to support my favourite (and very commercially successful) coffee and chocolate retailer to go for Fair Trade rather than switch drug supplier.

I am now waiting for the email reply I am promised from the CEO of this company, who has already (charmingly, briefly, but with a promise to reply in more length) replied to my email to her in which I made some of these points. This was a suggestion made by the manager of the local outlet after our last conversation, who took my email address and passed it on to the CEO, who contacted me within 24 hours. I have some hope that this may signal something positive in the long run. We will see and there will be news in this space. If successful I can cancel the plan to open a triple certified coffee and chocolate retailer and continue with weekly shocks to my overdraft.

If Fair Trade is a bandwagon, I think that like anti slavery, it's a bandwagon we should probably all want to be on. My taste buds are nervous that they may end up having their souls crushed by chain supplied beans. I am hopeful.

Coffee and biscotti (i cantucci di Prato)

This biscotti recipe is adapted from several, but mostly from "A Tuscan in the Kitchen" by Pino Luongo. Some great recipes, so very flowery writing and a ridiculous comparison between making risotto and wooing a woman. In the midst, some excellent food to be cooked.

Coffee: Buy Fair Trade Coffee beans. Go home. Sniff them. Grind them in a coffee grinder. If you haven't got one, buy the SIMPLEST sort you can find (try ebay if your local department store only sells fancy ones with flashing lights and dials, they are mere distractions). Grind coffee till it is as fine as caster sugar, not icing sugar. Warm your cafetiere. Put coffee into it. Pour some recently boiled water on to it, just to cover it. Stir and allow coffee to swell somewhat (you won't see it, just believe). Then pour the rest of the hot (recently boiled, but not boiling) water on to it. Stir again and allow to brew. Then, uttering the sacred text "je plonge" push the coffee plunger thing gently but firmly down to the bottom.

Biscotti: Separate 4 eggs. Whisk the egg whites until firm, add 500g sugar and finely grated zest of one lemon and stir well.

Whisk or blitz egg yolks and fresh vanilla seeds from one pod together, then stir into the mixture. Add 500g plain flour and 1 teaspoon baking powder. I tend just to tip the whole thing on to the worksurface and knead and combine in one go.

Knead the dough and as you knead, add 100g chopped hazelnuts and/or almonds or mixture. They can be in their skins though recipes do say blanched. Work hard to knead dough to fairly smooth consistency. You can always add a bit of juice or water if needed, but only if you are absolutely sure you need it, knead it first - it should be stiff, not moist, these are not cookies.

Roll out into tubes about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Flatten slightly to make an elipse if viewed from the side. Place on greased baking tray or non stick tray. Bake for 10 - 15 minutes at 200c (400f) till slightly coloured. They will expand slightly. Take out and turn the oven down to 135c (275f). Allow the columns to cool for 5 minutes or so while the oven cools down. Slice diagonally into 1 inch (2.5cm) thick slices like the ones you have been served in fancy coffee shops. Place these back in oven. Bake for further 15 minutes. Check they have dried out - if not, put them back in and check again in a few minutes. When dried, remove and cool. Serve with coffee or after a meal with Vin Santo. Yum.